The Crags of Pingxi (Cimu Ridge, Cimu Peak, Mt. Putuo, Xiaozi) 平溪 (慈母嶺, 慈母峰, 普陀山, 孝子山)

Xiaozi (Filial Son) Peak, Pingxi

This past weekend I headed back to Pingxi to scale the crags I didn't have time to hike when I first went to Pingxi. It took three hours from my front door to the start of the trail, so I was a little worried I wouldn't have time to complete the hike before dusk, but I managed to do it under the estimated time, including the time I spent just sitting on the various peaks enjoying the scenery (and breeze). 

map at trail entrances

The trail entrances are on the main road just off old street (tourist street, rather). The first time I was here I crossed the road and turned left, quickly reaching the trailhead leading directly up to the famous crags. This time I turned right, and after about a ten minute walk down the road came to the other trail entrance, which leads up to and along Cimu Ridge, taking me to the backside of Cimu Peak (the right-hand, highlighted loop on the map above). I found this backdoor route to the Pingxi crags through Richard Saunders' essential hiking guidebook, Taipei Escapes 1. (Also, Cimu is sometimes spelled Tzmu, depending on how old the signs are.)

a bamboo forest lines the first part of the trail

Pingxi is a popular destination for tourists to write their wishes on sky lanterns and release them to the heavens; however, what goes up, must come down, and their so-called wishes litter the forest

walking along a white cliff's edge before the ridge

The trail began with some concrete stairs, then a wide dirt path, until a left turn took me up more stairs to a large white cliff's edge that seemed to appear out of nowhere. Following this up, I came to a small rope-assisted vertical scramble to the peak. The trail ended there and I was confused for a moment, but retracing my steps (carefully) back down the vertical rock, where those seemingly superfluous ropes and footholds suddenly became useful, I saw the rest of the trail just passed a map board.

scramble up to Cimu Ridge's summit

Cimu Ridge

The ridge was covered in greenery, so it didn't look at all steep or intimidating. There was also an abundance of poles, ropes, and carved-out steps and footholds in the rock to make the path safe and accessible. Mostly, I enjoyed that I didn't see or hear a single other person along the entire trail (until I reached the popular crags). The path was sometimes obscure but there were plenty of trail tags along the way, so I never felt lost, and all the trail intersections had signs with English as well.

In less than two hours of hiking I reached the saddle between Cimu and Putuo, and decided to climb up Mt Putuo first, being the highest and offering views of the two more picturesque crags.

hiking to the summit of Mt Putuo

The path was safeguarded with rope railings and the bare rock of the crag made for an impressive sight. With three summits so close in proximity (four trails all meet at the bottom - one leading nowhere), it almost feels like a playground area for hikers. After reaching the summit of Mt Putuo, I headed down and up to Cimu Peak. On Cimu's summit there were three trails. The one at the back lead down a steep carved-rock staircase and an extremely narrow path along the side of the crag. This lead to the scariest part of all: crossing a hammock-like rope-bridge that didn't look as stable as it was. If it gave out, I would surely have slid down to my slow death, and though I felt a little tough for braving the crossing, I was followed a little while later by a middle-aged Taiwanese couple who didn't think anything of it.

I will let a few more pictures speak for themselves. Scaling all three didn't take more than an hour including relaxing at the tops. I definitely recommend this longer, less-traveled, route to reach the crags.

view of Cimu (Loving Mother) Peak from Mt Putuo

Cimu Peak

a steep descent, Xiaozi Peak

view of Pingxi from Xiaozi Peak

atop Xiaozi Peak

Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy), in the open area where all the peak trails meet

Getting there: take a "local" TRA train from Taipei to Badu (or Ruifang), and then switch to a Pingxi Line train and get off at Pingxi. Local trains leave Taipei every 10 to 20 minutes, but the Pingxi trains are every 45 minutes, so try to catch a local train that won't leave you waiting too long in Badu (you can search train schedules easily via the Taiwan Railways Timetable website).

Returning, try to catch the Pingxi train as it heads in the opposite direction of Badu, the next stop being the end of the line. This way, you get to wait in AC and have a better chance of getting a seat, as the train just heads right back towards Badu.